Four hundred and thirty-eight kilometres from the roof of Australia to the sea at Marlo — alpine melt water above the Snowy scheme pondages, a regulated Monaro river below Jindabyne past Dalgety, a wilderness gorge across the Victorian border, and a floodplain estuary at the end — with the Island Bend gauge drawn on the page.
The Snowy begins in a snowdrift under the summit of Mount Kosciuszko, higher than any river in the country, and ends four hundred and thirty-eight kilometres later in an estuary at Marlo with pelicans on the sandbars. The first thing to decide is which Snowy you mean, because at least four rivers wear the name and nobody fishes all of them in a season.
The dams and the border draw the lines. The Snowy scheme pondages and Lake Jindabyne cut off the alpine headwaters. Below the Jindabyne wall the river crosses the Monaro tableland. Below Burnt Hut Crossing it drops into a wilderness gorge that crosses into Victoria at Willis. And below the gorge it comes out onto the Orbost flats and turns into a lowland river and an estuary.
The alpine river is the small-stream trip. Between Guthega and Island Bend it is wild, cold pocket water falling through gorge and gravel, holding brown and rainbow trout that nobody has ever stocked. The melt lifts it from August, peaks in October at eight times the summer level, and is gone by December; from then until the April frosts it sits in its typical range and fishes at its best with a four weight and a dry-dropper, one cast per pocket. In winter the high country closes itself.
The Monaro river below Jindabyne is the cover-ground trip. Its flow is whatever the dam lets down, a broader and more variable water past Dalgety with tussock and open woodland on the banks, and browns that reward a nymph worked through the heads and tails of pools. Two gauges here read water temperature as well as flow, which matters, because summer afternoons on the open tableland can push the water into the twenties. Spring and autumn are the pick.
The gorge and the estuary are other trips again. The gorge through Snowy River National Park to McKillop Bridge is canoe and walking country with no roads to the water, and a wet week in the mountains puts it out of reach for days. The estuary at Marlo fishes for perch and bream under Victoria’s saltwater rules.
Eleven gauges sit on the river from Guthega to the Marlo jetty, and the river’s year is drawn from the one above Island Bend with the typical range shaded. Read the nearest gauge before you wade, and check the rules for whichever state’s bank you are standing on.