Seventy-four kilometres of walk-in Blue Mountains gorge — gravel runs and pools between confined, forested walls, the Cedar Ford gauge where the Gingra Trail comes down, and wild fish nobody has counted.
Somewhere past the halfway mark on the Gingra Trail, with the pack starting to bite, you hear the river before you see it and understand why nobody fishes the Kowmung. Then you come out at Cedar Ford onto a gravel run between forested walls, water clear enough to count the stones, and understand why you should.
This is the gorge, and it is most of the river: seventy-four kilometres from the Morong Creek junction down to the Coxs, as wild as water gets within a day of Sydney. Bedrock at the top where the headwater gorge finishes, then gravel runs and pools between confined banks for most of its length, the drop easing as it goes until the last few kilometres run almost level. The canopy closes over it, nearly ninety per cent at the bottom, and there is not one cleared paddock on the river.
Know what you are walking in for. One fish is on record here, a blackfish from 1910. Nothing has been stocked and nobody runs a survey. That is an absence of sampling, not of fish: a gorge this steep, cold, shaded and remote is where wild brown trout persist once the roadside water has been fished down. Treat it as unproven, and let a day on the water do the counting.
The trip is a two-day walk with a four weight. In on the Gingra Trail from the Kanangra tops, about fourteen kilometres to Cedar Ford, base there, fish up into the tighter water one day and down through the longer runs the next. From late spring until the first frosts is the time, with a dry-dropper fished once into every pocket and an Elk Hair Caddis in the evening runs. The trout classification that closes the headwaters in winter does not apply here, but the ordinary NSW rules do, and the bottom of the gorge runs toward WaterNSW’s drinking-water special area, where the water authority’s rules replace the park’s.
The river’s only gauge sits at Cedar Ford, right where the trail meets the water, and its readings sit under Conditions. Read it the day before you walk, not the morning of. After rain on the plateau this river colours before it rises, and a wet forecast is a reason to wait.